The Long Awaited Canadian Rockies and Crested Butte Trip Post (Part I)

Ice Climbing in Canmore and Banff National Park

Ok, so I’m a blogger not a writer. I’m also a procrastinator. Which means things in my life that I have to get done, get done late, and things I don’t -updating my blog- get done really late. So here we are, a month and a half after my trip, posting an entry…. (or  four months before I finish it).

Jumping right in! Sometimes I think this is one of the best personality attributes I have, other times… maybe not. Regardless, a friend of mine (whom I hadn’t seen in years) and I met up at the climbing gym back in November to hang and chat. She mentioned she was going to Canmore to do some ice climbing and a little skiing in the next few weeks. Being the awesome person I am, I invited myself to go along with. (She was all about it though.)

Fast forward to early December and I’m hoping on a plane to Calgary, excited, nervous, and wondering why I decided I could afford this trip. In case you’re wondering, the border patrol dude at the Calgary airport was really nice. He asked me why I was tired and who I was visiting, smiled and sent me on my way with my one way ticket, no problem. I have a few discrepancies on my record that I’ve heard the Canadian government doesn’t take a liking to, and thankfully I had zero problems entering Alberta.

As it turned out, the friend I went to visit broke her tibia her first day skiing (ever) at Sunshine Village in Banff. I knew she had hurt her leg before my arrival, but we weren’t sure if  she broke it until she went to the doctor after I got there.  I was hoping to climb with her all week; now we were hoping she’d be able to walk normally in a month. My options became watching movies all week, or making new friends… you could guess that I chose the latter.

In any case, I highly recommend traveling to the Banff area if you like ice. There is an INSANE amount compared to the midwest…. and as far as I’ve heard, anywhere else in the world. I only ended up climbing 4 days (out of 6) and I’m already itching to go back.

On day one my two new friends and I headed to Bow Valley to meet up with some of their pals in Grotto Canyon. Shaira and I decided to hit up Grotto Falls first, a solid 55m WI2. Shaira lead it like a pro, and I’m pretty sure she only placed one screw…. but it was a super easy, super fun, cardio speed workout of a climb. It’s easily climbable in one pitch with a 70m rope, and a rappel descent to a super easy/safe midway point.  Then we headed over to the main area, and I hopped on Hers (15m WI4) and His (15m WI4+) on top rope. Then I got to play on my first ever mixed route, Sketch and Sniff (15m M6+). Wrapping my mind around mixed climbing wasn’t too hard, but I will admit, it took some quick thinking. I was actually quite nervous, like the first time I ever tried leading or bouldering. In any case, I hang-dogged up the thing, but had a great time, and then did some laps on Hers to prove to myself that I wasn’t a horrible climber after all…

Hafner Creek approach

Day Two: The kids wanted to have a crag day so we headed to Hafner Creek.

yours truly on Swank

Once we get there I soon find out, it’s gonna be another mixed climbing day…. We all warmed up on a WI3 route and then the mixed madness began.

I started on Half a Gonk (M6), followed it with  Californication (M5) and finished on Swank (M8-)… all on top rope. After successfully climbing 3 mixed routes, I decided that I like mixed climbing… but I’m thinking I still prefer a good ice route.

winking on Rogan's Gully

On day three I decided that I’d had enough of this mixed nonsense, and implored my keepers to find a good long ice route to spend the day on. Unfortunately, it was super snowy, and avalanche conditions weren’t the best for doing routes. We headed to Cascade Mountain in Banff hoping to do Rogan’s Gully (III WI2/3). After a romp around in the snow trying to find the climb, we finally made it to the base. It ended up being a party day, with 6 climbers… 3 leaders, 3 followers. However, due to poor conditions, and someone getting an ice shard in the eye, we ended up bailing after the second pitch. I would love to head back and finish her someday. It was still a fun trip, but definitely not quite the epic-ness I’d hoped for.

Snowline

I spent my last day climbing in Kananaskis County at Thomas Creek. We ended up heading to Snowline, a really beautiful 100m III WI4. Nathan lead the first pitch, Shaira lead the second, and I soon realized I hadn’t led a single climb this trip. I was planning on leading the second pitch, but ended up getting the worst case of the ‘screaming barfies’ I’ve ever gotten on the way up the first pitch.  Apparently it’s hard to climb and pull screws while following when it’s really really cold out. This was probably my favorite day, mostly because the route was pretty, and with just three of us climbing, there was a very cohesive group.
It was worth getting the barfies to hang out (literally) and chat about ice while belaying, and taking in our surroundings.

looking down from the top pitch 2 on Snowline

So I only got four days of climbing in before we had to head to Colorado… but it was still a great first experience in the Canadian Rockies. I was sad to leave, but also getting super pumped about the chance to learn how to snowboard at Crested Butte.

(to be continued….)

Joy and Climbing with Best Friends

On Best Friends and Trad Climbing in the Red River Gorge, KY

A few weekends ago I went on a whirlwind “birthday” trip to the red with two great friends. One has been my best since we were 15. The other I’ve known for 6 months, was my boyfriend for a bit, and now were trying to just be pals. (Wish me luck.)

In any case, as with best-friends, ex-boyfriends, and birthday shenanigans, there are always issues. With me, there are always problems planning on who is going, when, and how. Everyone takes time off, and then no-one talks about the fact that they can’t leave till super late, or that they have to get back crazy early, and really I should be making a google document. And requiring you to sign your name in blood.

Regardless, we ended up going down for 2 days, and climbing for 1 and a half of them. I always feel like I have to climb as much as possible on my weekend trips or it’s not worth going, but this trip was different. I went with my best friend and we were there just to have a blast.

We went to crags that weren’t new to me, and we climbed climbs I’ve done before, more than just once or twice. It didn’t matter. I was there to share experiences with people who mean a lot to me. I didn’t climb my best, or my worst, it was just an average weekend, with anything but average people.

Rob on Overlord at Fantasia Wall

We spent our one full day of climbing at Fortress Wall after spending our first afternoon at Fantasia Wall. I’d been to both walls before; Fortress years ago, when I was just getting into climbing (a climbing baby!!! oh my!) and still borrowing gear from everyone I knew. I remember doing my first pink point and my first multi pitch route at Fortress in 2008.

Now I was back, and calling the shots. (And was labeled the “director”).

We started out on an Bedtime for Bonzo, an easy, fun, 5.6 multi pitch route in which the reward is the view from the top. Erika had never climbed so high in her life. And then (of course) we made her rappel for the first time.  Rob had never lead a multi pitch trad route. And I helped coach him on how to coach someone unsure of themselves (Erika) up a route.

Matching helmets on Bedtime for Bonzo

The rest of the day I spent casually climbing relatively easy trad routes. Erika tried to find lost motivation. And Rob took his first fall on his own trad placements. (Later we named our pizza Trad Whipper). I worked on wearing a helmet, (a little shout out to all the bloggers out there trying to get on the helmet wearing phenomenon) even while on the ground.

atop our 5.6

I didn’t focus on sending any climbs that day. I don’t even remember how many I did, or how many takes I needed. All I know is that it was one of the best climbing weekends I’ve had in years. All because I was there to spend time with friends. There we’re no expectations because the trip almost didn’t happen. We were there to be with each other. It didn’t matter that I could barely do the approach, and was still unwilling to lead. Or that Erika psyched herself out on the last pitch. Or that Rob over exerted himself and could have taken a bad fall.

Rob on Bombs Away just before his 'whipper'

What mattered was that we were there together, supporting one another, and having fun.

I think that is what I love most about the outdoors, and climbing. It’s a chance to play outside, and see who your friends really are. I helps you realize who you’ve become, and why you love what you love. I’ve always known that I care deeply for the people close to me, but seeing them respect me, and just genuinely having a great time with me, makes me feel honored. And just plain happy.

Get outside. Do it with the people you love. It’s what makes my heart beat. I’ve yet to find a purer joy in life than being with my favorite people, climbing rocks. – It’s worth pulling teeth to get them to come with you. And they’ll thank you.

Erika, Rob & I (and the echo)

It all lead up to two great 5.9′s – NRG Trip Report

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Trip Report – New River Gorge in Wild and Wonderful West Virginia

I recently spent ten days in West Virginia with seven friends, and it was one of the best vacations I’ve ever been on. Thanks to good planning and time management, (what?!) we were able to get everyone’s schedules to collide perfectly.

We decided on the New River Gorge because there really is something for everyone. We brought down 2 paddle boards, an inflatable kayak and tons of climbing and caving gear.

In any case, I hadn’t had this much fun on a trip in a long time. To sum up its epic-ness I’ve decided to make a little list of all the adventures that were had. (No one wants to read a 600 page report anyways).

- We spent the first few nights sleeping at Rogers Rocky Top Retreat. Would NOT recommend it because the facilities don’t exist. (no bathroom! really?) And people do their business almost any where they choose. (ewwww) No bathrooms for free coffee isn’t a good enough trade-off

- Warm up day at Bubba City. Some of the routes have seriously loose rock, so be cautious. My friend Justin got on rock for the first time since his climbing accident in Wisconsin, and it probably wasn’t the best place to take anyone after having recently been littered out…. However, there are still some really fun routes.

- Too many babies at the crag. Please people don’t put your children to sleep ON the path, and then ask me to pay you to walk past them. I found some family’s very nice, and others completely inconsiderate. This is an area with loose rock – Leaving a kid under climbers is just plain stupid. Don’t expect me to tip-toe around your responsibility, make it easy for me to be nice.

- The second day we headed to Summersville Lake. I definitely recommend climbing at Orange Oswald. It’s a super fun 5.10 sport area with the lake 5 feet away. You can swim (or paddle board / kayak) and watch your friends send routes while floating care-free. We ended up coming back to this area two more times just to swim, climb, and hang out with friends of every climbing level. (There are 5.7′s to 5.12′s all close to the water). Erika and Sean climbed their first full routes outside, and Kennon did a little yoga on the paddle board. It’s a pretty amazing spot.

- If you are into water sports, there are many places with lake access. Two days we ended up paddling to the crag. Salmon Run is just past the Summersville Lake bridge, and is a great place for water access heading to the crags. Plus, paddling under the bridge is pretty epic, and there are rocks you can jump off. (shhhh, we didn’t do anything).

- We wanted a little trad day, so we headed to Beauty Mountain. Also, a great spot. We were all alone and (almost) making up our own routes. (It is trad right!?) There are some pretty good, easy trad routes for anyone confident on a 5.8. My friend Mike did his first pink point on trad, Justin led something for the first time since his accident, I lead / pink pointed a trad route and Rob and Michelle sent like beasts. Too fun.

- Day four was a rest day and we headed to the beach at Battle Run. We laid around like bums, tanned, paddled, and some of us enjoyed a little PBR. Classy. Do make sure you bring life vests with you on your water craft. We didn’t one day, and the army corps of engineers were a little unhappy with us.

- We ended up moving camp to Chestnut Creek on day 5. Thank god. The host, Brian is a little odd, but the place is spectacular. The facilities really are ‘top notch’, there is a ton of shade, and being able to have a camp fire always makes my 5 star list. I will probably be staying here again and again.

- We had a rainy day, so we decided to drive to Friars Hole Cave. It’s located in Greenbriar county, so it is a bit of a drive, but the experience was well worth it. We contacted a new friend, Rolland, who is familiar with the area, and he contacted the land owners to grant us access. Only some of us are experienced Cavers or were willing to cave, but it still ended up being a great trip. We were able to make the connection between two entrances, and had a great time exploring the 6th largest cave in the US. (Well part of it anyways…)

-  More rain = more stand up paddle boarding! And eating out at the local restaurants. Throughout the week we went to a few local digs. Hands down, my favorites were Sedona Cantina and Tapas and Cathedral Cafe. Both places serve excellent food, and have amazing, friendly service. The only place we went I would not recommend is Gumbo’s. The food is decent, but portions are small. And the service was so slow we almost walked out. It was not worth the time, or the money.

-Our final day we headed to Endless Wall and played at the Kaymoor Slabs. What an amazing place. I wish we would have headed here sooner. The wall really is endless, so finding things can be a bit tricky for a first timer. However, the view is so fantastic we didn’t even mind getting lost. We finally found and climbed two of the most fun 5.9 routes I’ve done in ages. I lead The Upheval, in the beating sun and couldn’t have been happier. Rob lead Fool Effect and sent it, sweat and all. We ended up topping out on this classic 120 ft route after climbing past eagles and their aerie, and looking back on spectacular views of the New River. I’ll also mention that we were totally alone, and if you’re into a little nude climbing, it’s very possible here. Lets just say we might have both been topless for a hot second.

So, I like the New River Gorge. We only scratched the surface of things to do in the area. The place is also really well-known for White Water Rafting and Mountain Biking. Maybe next time, West Virginia, maybe next time. With that I’ll leave you. Leave a comment if you also love the NRG, and want to meet us there in the future.